Robusta is not Arabica's little brother. Interview with Jean-Paul Mvongo

Jean-Paul, Ayos Coffee stands for high-quality Robusta coffee from Cameroon. Why Robusta – and not Arabica, which most specialty roasters prefer?

Jean-Paul Mvongo: I come from Ayos, a small town in Cameroon. There, Robusta is part of our landscape, our history, our everyday life. As a child, I used to eat coffee cherries straight from the bush. For me, Robusta isn't a substitute—it's a different variety. Arabica is the darling of the Global North, but Robusta has qualities that are only now being rediscovered: depth, spice, body. And a richness that is often overlooked.

Robusta is considered by many to be "the cheap coffee". How do you explain this reputation – and why is it wrong?

Robusta has often been mass-produced, processed by the industry to make instant coffee, and many believe it's only there to add crema to blends. But that says nothing about its potential. If you treat Robusta with respect—from the soil to the roast—you get a coffee that stands on its own. Far from inferior, simply different. Robusta isn't Arabica's little brother. It's a different character altogether: full-bodied, with pronounced sweetness, intense chocolate and nut notes, and low acidity.

 

What makes a good Robusta – in the sense of specialty coffee?

A good terroir, a carefully selected harvest, meticulous processing, and careful sorting – all of these are crucial. We work in small cooperatives, harvesting only the ripe cherries and drying them on raised beds. This takes longer, is more labor-intensive and expensive, but it's worth it.

What many don't know: Robusta is the secret ingredient in classic Italian espresso. Without it, there would be no dense, nut-brown crema, no deep body. Robusta is the essence, the backbone. It's just been hidden for decades – now we're giving it back its name.

 

How is the market reacting to this?

Curiosity is growing. In the specialty coffee scene, you can see that Robusta is making a comeback. Roasters are looking for new profiles, new stories. And our customers are noticing: It doesn't just taste different – ​​it feels different too. Many are surprised by how mild and balanced a high-quality Robusta can be.

 

You've mentioned climate change several times before. How does it specifically affect your work?

Indirectly. Central Cameroon offers a more stable climate compared to major producing countries like Brazil or Vietnam – a real advantage in times of climate change. While extreme weather events are increasing worldwide and harvests are becoming more unpredictable, Cameroon can boast a certain degree of supply security. And this is becoming increasingly important, as climate change is putting the coffee market under growing pressure. At the same time, Robusta is, in some ways, more resilient than Arabica. It tolerates higher temperatures, requires less altitude, and is more robust – hence its name. In a changing world, Robusta could play a crucial role. But only if we operate sustainably.

 

What does "sustainable" actually mean in concrete terms?

For me, this means above all: growing together with the local people. We pay fair prices, invest in training, and in infrastructure. Our farms are increasingly using agroforestry, meaning we use shade trees that store CO₂ and protect the soil. This is slower than industrial agriculture, but more stable in the long run. And: it preserves the livelihoods of the families who grow the coffee. Without them, there is no coffee.

 

What does Ayos Coffee mean to you personally?

It's a bridge. Between my origins and my adopted home, Europe. Between tradition and innovation. And it's an attempt to make appreciation visible – for a product that sits on millions of tables every morning, but often remains invisible. Coffee is a cultural ambassador. And Robusta deserves its rightful place in this culture.

 

Last question: How do you prefer to drink your coffee?

An Italian espresso, savored. No sugar. No rush.